Engine mounts

Engine mount change 

I changed the NSF mount in the summer. I seem to remember using a trolley jack and a short length of 3x2 timber. I used the timber on its end jacking against the edge of the sump (where the bolts are) so the block took the weight not the sump. No damage and job done in about 45 mins. (I seem to remember a small amount of grunting & swearing to line it all back up again) I am sure something similar would work on the other side. Have fun Barry

Did I read somewhere that the mounting rubbers are different each side, although looking the same? RH side has to carry more weight because of the engine tilt?

The right hand (nearside) mount is also susceptible to oil contamination when changing the oil filter. This can shorten the mounts life. I always cover the mount with a rag during filter changes.

I did this job last year after over enthusastically towing my caravan up a big hill after the national at ledbury Te he he. The mounts are different, one side the rubber part is deeper than the other. I did one side at a time by wedging a small block of wood under one side of the engine where the bolts for the sump are and then jacked it out with a trolly jack. I found I had to remove the rocker cover to be able to jack the engine up high enough. If you don't it push's the brake and clutch filler up and you get fluid leaking out (get a spare rocker gasket). They are a sod to line up again and you will think you will never get them back together. I found that bolting them into the car from the bottom a few turns so they are still able to move a little and then just lower the engine and they will sought them self out. Good luck Steve

240 engine mounts 

The rubber engine mounts are different in a number of ways, the off side (R/H) is larger in diameter and the treaded mounting studs run on a central axis with location studs offset on each face. The near side (L/H) is smaller and the treaded location studs are offset with the location studs set on the central axis, hope this was helpful. Bob

I found it was easier to unbolt the bracket from the side of the engine block, rather than try to lift the engine high enough to get the rubber bush out alone. While working under the alternator, take the opportunity to check the state of the wiring. The thick red wire is live, and very prone to corrosion.

The other advantage of the polly mounts apart from being stronger is oil does not affect them.